Instructions for students

(1)        Prepare  a colour chart when you want to make any design for batik.

(2)        Be careful when you apply & remove wax from the cloth.

(3)        Don’t dip your brush at the bottom of the wax to avoid damage to the brush.

(4)        Be careful about the source of heat.  i.e. store

(5)        Always use hand gloves when you use H₂SO₄ & caustic soda and use spoon.

(6)        Take out the pure silk cloth from blue dye as soon as it becomes blue.  Otherwise it                  will become brown.

GUIDE FOR DRAFT STANDARD FOR BATIk

SCOPE

This standard prescribes recommended raw materials and a set of procedure for the manufacture of cloth according to the batik dyeing process.  It also gives and product requirements and methods of test for batik cloth.

 

TERMINOLOGY

(1)        “Tjap”  - specially made block composed of copper strips hand worked and frilled into a

copper lattice and held in place by solder.  Printing on both sides is possible using this equipment and a high degree of precession even in intricate designs may be obtained.

(2)        “djanting”  -  a small cup made of thin copper sheet which carries a tabular spout at one

end and fitted into a short bamboo rod at the other by means of a rolled extension of copper sheet which with of the line it is desired to trace.

(3)        Paraffin wax - A higher homologues of paraffin obtained as a residue from the

distillation of petroleum.  Melting point 45⁰C  to 65⁰C.  specific gravity 0.9

(4)        Bee’s wax  -  A  white or yellow plastic substance obtained from honey comb of the bee. 

Melting point 63⁰C  to 65⁰C.  It consists chic fly of nyrichyl ester of palmitic acid , C₁₅, H₃₁,

COO, C₃₀, H₁₆, free cerotic acid C₂₅, H_51, COOH and other homologues.

(1)               Vat dyes – A series of insoluble dye stuffs that can be reduced to their water soluble leuca compounds , which are oxidi8xsed by exposure to the air, thus producing the dye

stuff direct on the fibre.

(2)               Reactive dyes -  Classes of dye stuffer which react chemically with textile fibers.  Many dyes of this type are based on cyan uric chloride and the chemical linkage between dye & fibre depends on a tria zinic nucleus.

RAW MATERIAL REQUIREMENTS

Base material

Recommended base materials -  The following types of base materials are recommended.

ITEM	RECOMMENDED ASE MATERIALS
Shirts	Poplin
Sarees	Voile, Silk
Scarves	Voile, Silk
Wall hangings	Any suitable cotton materials
Dress lengths	Poplin
Cushion covers	Poplin, sheeting
Ties	Suitable silk and cotton
Table cloths	Sheeting
Bed spreads
Hankerchiefs	Voile, Silk

A close weave cloth takes in fine details in design the wax percentages completely through the cloth.

STRINKAGE  -  base material used for batik printing shall have a maximum shrinkage of 4%.

The requirements should be taken with extra measurement added to the basic measurements due to the shrinkage and if the cloth would wash there will be no need of taking extra measurements.

Scouring loss  _  Base material used for batik printing shall have a maximum scouring loss of 2.5%.

           

Wax  :- A mixture of paraffin wax & bees wax is recommended for covering the clothe prior to

dyeing.

Dyes :- The following types of cold water dyes are recommended

(a)   Indigo and other cold dying vat dye stuffs.

(b)   Azoic dye stuffs.

(c)    Reactive cold dye may be used.

Identifying cotton material

By doing burning test : It would be easier.  If you get grayish ash and a poplin burning smell;  while burning will be pure cotton material and if the material melts that means it contain synthetic material.

Packaging 

Packages  ;  each pieces shall be folded or wrapped on cardboard or straw board of suitable size and thickness.  Each piece or bundle of pieces shall be wrapped in suitable packaging materials which do not adversely affect the cloth, & which will not stain the cellophane or polythene film.

Bulk containers ;-  packages obtained as in clause may be packed in suitable containers.  Only items of the same type (eg. shirts, hangings) may be packed together in a bulk container.

LEBELLING

Packages : The following information shall appear in legible and in illegible marking on a label securely attached to each package.

(a)    Manufactures name & / or trade mark .

(b)   The words “Hand waxed & dyed by genuine batik wax resist  process.

(c)    Contents of package.

(d)   Washing & cleaning instructions.

(e)   Country of origin.

 THE BASIC COMPARTMENTS OF A BATIK FACTORY

(1)                 Drawing

(2)                 Tracing

(3)                 Working

(4)                 Dyeing

(5)                 Storing

(6)                 Chemicals

(7)                 Boiling

(8)                 Washing

(9)                 Ironing

(          10)                Storing 

Batik wall Hangers

The Batik Process

The Batik Process

the design must be drawn on the cloth first.

using tools hot wax have to be applied on the design

after waxing  you have to immerse the cloth in the necessary colour bath

how to apply in dye baths

then you should let it dry and wax you done previously 

then immerse the cloth in the next colour bath

as done previously apply wax and immerse in the next colour bath 

Finally you have to boil the cloth to remove wax and follow the above procedure. 

the final product

Contrasting Colors

CONTRASTING COLORS

According to the batik, white using the contrast colors; the colors must be applied after boiling process; in order to prevent the mixing of the colors which will be courses to change the shadow of the other color.

The colors in wheel will be divided into 3 categories in order to recognize the contrast colors.(A, B, C)

Procian Bath Method

PROCIAN BATH METHOD  

• two tubs are being use in this method.

tub 01

remove the cloths from the tub.
put the rest half of dye mixture.
for 30-40 min

For tub 02

Dye – 6g

Soda Ash – 300g

Costic soda – 30g

are being used.

• Mix the dye mixture well and the dye amount will be vary according to the shade has to be taken.
• Soda Ash will be put as helps to the dye to absorb and attract to the Fabric.

•  ·      Have to use 100% cotton, 100% viscose  , pure silk…………
   ·     As it getting about to dry, wash it with water to prevent from getting patches or any kind of defects in colours.

BOILING / REMOVE THE WAX

Using at least two Aluminum vessels in this process.

1st stage

•                The wax which gets from this stage will be taken again in production process.
•                 Normally this wax can be use twice.

2nd stage

·           Wax will be use as fuel.

·           Cannot be use while waxing as it contains soap.

3rd stage

Washing with water and dry them.

washing

Fabrics for Batiks

For Batik printing it is always better to have fine fabrics like Muslin or fine poplin.  Some of the dyes are not fast specially on cotton.  In that case the fabrics  have  to be dry-cleaned before painting.  Silk gives wonderful effect in Batik design.  But as it is too costly, it is better for beginners to use cotton.  In cotton the finer and closer the weaves, the easier it is to work.  It also gives a better effect.  Almost all new clothes contain starches , which may prevent wax and the dye to certain extent from seeping into the clothe and might result in uneven coloring containing patches.  So wash and  iron all fabrics you use for batik.  If you have to use a tinted cloth it is always better to boil it and wash it to be sure that all those colors and dyes have been removed.  After wash, the fabric should be ironed for uniformity of tracing and applying wax.

Before the preparation for batik ; the starch of the cloth must be removed.

Dye – bath tub

The bottom will be having a little slant in order to,
(a) As a help to clean the tub.
(b) To avoid to cover  the whole area of the tub while using the tub for small piece.
(c)Reduce the waste of the dye mixture.

The main methods of dyeing which use in Batik.

(1)   Napthol

(2)   Vat

(3)   Prosition 

BRINTHOL DYE

per  1 kg – cotton

tub 1

tub 2

tub 4

tub 3

Vat dye

(1)  Sake the clothes I normal water in order to prevent patches while the process and give a

        regular effect.

(2)   Add hot water to the caustic and stir it well until all the crystals get dissolve.

• Add half of it to the dye-bath with normal water
• Add other qty. with dye mixture

(3)  Take out the cloth pieces which soaked  in normal water.

(4)  Add the dye mixture to the bath and mix it well.
(5)  Put the pieces one by one and soak it in the dye mixture without any folds form. Or the cloth which will course patches, uneven lines.. etc...

(6)  Take the cloth pieces one by one out and again put in to the bath on other side.

(2nd Stage)

(7)        Keep the clothes as it is soaked but the dye mixture must not seen above the cloths.

                                                                                                                                                         

(8)        After keeping it for about 40 min, take the pieces & hang it where want effect by direct

sun light and must have enough wind to absorb (CO₂)  which course the color. 

(9)        As it is about to dry; sake the pieces with normal water to avoid getting patches or any

defects.