SCOPE
This standard prescribes recommended raw materials and a set of
procedure for the manufacture of cloth according to the batik dyeing
process. It also gives and product
requirements and methods of test for batik cloth.
TERMINOLOGY
(1) “Tjap” - specially made block composed of copper
strips hand worked and frilled into a
copper lattice and held in place by solder. Printing on both sides is possible using this
equipment and a high degree of precession even in intricate designs may be
obtained.
(2) “djanting” - a
small cup made of thin copper sheet which carries a tabular spout at one
end and fitted into a short bamboo rod at the other
by means of a rolled extension of copper sheet which with of the line it is
desired to trace.
(3) Paraffin wax - A higher homologues of paraffin obtained as a
residue from the
distillation of petroleum. Melting point 450C to 650C. specific gravity 0.9
(4) Bee’s wax -
A white or yellow plastic
substance obtained from honey comb of the bee.
Melting point 630C to 650C. It consists chic fly of nyrichyl ester of
palmitic acid , C15, H31,
COO, C30, H16, free cerotic
acid C25, H51, COOH and other homologues.
(1)
Vat dyes – A series of insoluble dye stuffs that can be reduced to
their water soluble leuca compounds , which are oxidi8xsed by exposure to the
air, thus producing the dye
stuff direct on the fibre.
(2)
Reactive dyes - Classes of dye
stuffer which react chemically with textile fibers. Many dyes of this type are based on cyan uric
chloride and the chemical linkage between dye & fibre depends on a tria
zinic nucleus.
RAW MATERIAL REQUIREMENTS
Base material
Recommended base materials - The
following types of base materials are recommended.
|
ITEM
|
RECOMMENDED
ASE MATERIALS
|
|
Shirts
|
Poplin
|
|
Sarees
|
Voile, Silk
|
|
Scarves
|
Voile, Silk
|
|
Wall hangings
|
Any suitable cotton materials
|
|
Dress lengths
|
Poplin
|
|
Cushion covers
|
Poplin, sheeting
|
|
Ties
|
Suitable silk and cotton
|
|
Table cloths
|
Sheeting
|
|
Bed spreads
|
|
|
Hankerchiefs
|
Voile, Silk
|
A close weave cloth takes in fine details in design the wax percentages
completely through the cloth.
STRINKAGE - base material used for batik printing shall
have a maximum shrinkage of 4%.
The requirements should be taken with extra measurement added to the
basic measurements due to the shrinkage and if the cloth would wash there will
be no need of taking extra measurements.
Scouring loss _ Base material used for batik printing shall
have a maximum scouring loss of 2.5%.
Wax :- A mixture of paraffin wax & bees wax is recommended for covering
the clothe prior to
dyeing.
Dyes :- The following types of
cold water dyes are recommended
(a) Indigo and other cold dying vat dye stuffs.
(b) Azoic dye stuffs.
(c) Reactive cold dye may be used.
Identifying cotton material
By doing burning test : It would be easier. If you get grayish ash and a poplin burning
smell; while burning will be pure cotton
material and if the material melts that means it contain synthetic material.
Packaging
Packages ; each pieces shall be folded or wrapped on
cardboard or straw board of suitable size and thickness. Each piece or bundle of pieces shall be
wrapped in suitable packaging materials which do not adversely affect the
cloth, & which will not stain the cellophane or polythene film.
Bulk containers ;- packages
obtained as in clause may be packed in suitable containers. Only items of the same type (eg. shirts,
hangings) may be packed together in a bulk container.
LEBELLING
Packages : The following information shall appear in legible and in
illegible marking on a label securely attached to each package.
(a) Manufactures
name & / or trade mark .
(b) The words “Hand waxed & dyed by genuine batik
wax resist process.
(c) Contents of package.
(d) Washing & cleaning instructions.
(e) Country of origin.
THE BASIC COMPARTMENTS OF A BATIK FACTORY
(1)
Drawing
(2)
Tracing
(3)
Working
(4)
Dyeing
(5)
Storing
(6)
Chemicals
(7)
Boiling
(8)
Washing
(9)
Ironing
( 10) Storing
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